Christmas 2016 New Years 2017
Many of you may have felt we had sailed off the edge of the world – my apologies for leaving you hanging. Sailmails have been sparse this year with limited sailing as we made the transition from Mustang Sally to Kanaloa broken by a number of trips back to New Zealand and the death of my mother.
Today is a first, a Christmas Day spent on passage as we motored the 65 miles from Ko Lanta to Ko Lipe to join friends for Christmas. We were meant to be there yesterday but our departure was delayed by progress checks on Kanaloa , Christmas shopping, recommissioning Mustang Sally and provisioning after only returning to Phuket from NZ on the 20th – very much a stressful rush, but it will be great to enjoy a couple of weeks on the water. Of course, after 12 months of lying in the dock, a myriad of small problems arose on Mustang Sally on the eve of departure and yesterday as we motored south into un-seasonal head winds courtesy of a small low off the top of Sumatra – discovery of coolant leak in the freezer,the furling genoa hadn’t been retrieved from the sailmaker, the AIS won’t communicate with new computer (the old computer set up for navigation on Mustang Sally was lost in the office fire at Waikaia), the iPad wouldn’t charge (backup navigation), the masthead navigation lights are on the blink, the anchor remote stopped working and a malfunctioning gas solenoid left us without gas for the galley stove. It was an evening of improvisation as we pulled into Hat Kan Triang on dusk, a rather rolly anchorage off two up-market resorts that competed more loudly than the most fanatic muezzin to dominate the sound waves. Dinner was cooked on an emergency burner on the cockpit floor, first the spuds and then the Angus steak with Roy Orbison, the Beach Boys and Bob Marley blasting over the bay; not quite the grand Christmas Eve feast planned. Despite the setbacks, Father Christmas still found us, sliding down the mast and through the saloon hatch to brighten a young boy’s eyes after an early awakening this morning.
7 days later, Ko Lipe 0629.4N 099 17.6E
Happy New Year everyone,
Following a largely windless passage from Ko Lanta, we dropped anchor late afternoon off Sunset Beach to join friends ashore after making good the boat. The evening was spent relaxing in deck chairs on the beach of a little cove bounded by granite boulders, the tide lapping at our feet while we enjoyed tapas and mojitos, and Morgan and his little friend Millie played among the rocks and in the sea as night fell. It was black, black by the time we returned to MS somewhat circuitously as I headed out in the wrong direction (this is Warren writing this blog) – always a nervous moment wondering where the boat has gone until you finally find her! So ended Christmas Day – no roast turkey or crackers, overindulgence or party hats, but a day with plenty of time for reflection and mellow friendship, even if communications were stretched.
We spent the days lazing about – leisurely morning coffee at Blooms on the corner of Walking Street from Sunset Beach and Walking Street leading down to the main bay on the south side of the island, followed by a massage or a jaunt to the one and only “supermarket”, and an afternoon either on the beach or back aboard completing jobs or reading. We now have gas and an anchor remote cobbled together from a bilge pump switch. Millie and Morgan joined one family or the other, before returning to the Spanish Bar for our evening mojito. Ananda abruptly departed two days ago to seize a weather window to return to Langkawi, taking Morgan’s little playmate. Still they had enjoyed 4 days and 5 nights swimming, exploring, Lego building and sleep-overs without so much as a cross word – amazing! We were joined later in the day by Northern Winds, a beautifully appointed and immaculately kept Farr 56 sailed by Bob and Kimmy from Michigan. We have known them since first arriving at Rebak over a year ago and they have always taken an interest in Morgan for whom they too arrived bearing gifts. The morning coffee routine continued and last night was spent once again at the Spanish bar enjoying absolutely delectable tapas – baby calamari on diced water melon in soy sauce, tomato & cucumber bruchetta and vegetable tempura with a stunning yellow pepper,cumin and turmeric dip – of course, washed down by numerous mojitos as we sheltered at our table on the crowded verandah from the rain brought by squalls assailing us throughout the evening. Not much of a night for party goers on the beach, although the party of rowdy Russians and semi-naked women crowding the deck with us made the best of things, the spirits flowing freely as the waft of pot drifted under the eaves. Then they moved on and we followed soon after to be back on board and in our bunks by 10 p.m. – the quietest New Year’s Eve on record!
Ko Lipe is the smallest and southernmost island of the Butangs, a cluster of forest clad granite islands rising abruptly from azure seas 25 miles off the mainland. It is the tourist hub of the National Park comprising the islands, albeit not developed to the extent of Phuket and other mainland resorts, but rapidly heading that way. Transport is limited to walking and motorcycle taxis and the narrow streets are lined with restaurants, massage parlours and clothing shops in monotonous profusion. There are signs of development and rapid poorly regulated growth everywhere, countered by signs of heavy handed park authority closing down businesses that have dubious titles to land sold to them by a wealthy Bankgok Chinaman (“the big man”) who first acquired the land from sea gypsies occupying the island with no clear title (in what appears to be a common Thai scam), but the beaches are clean and white, broken by sculptured granite boulders which make great adventure playgrounds for children. The water is crystal clear, when not blowing, and the snorkeling good. However, the weather has been rather indifferent – NE trades blowing 15-20 knots under cloudy skies much of the time, with periodic squalls to 30 knots plus. Still it means cooler weather even if not that great for snorkeling. It’s meant to lighten tomorrow as we head back towards Phuket, back to a concerted effort to get Kanaloa back into the water.
The year gone has been a pot pourri of change, excitement, disruption and frustration as we have transitioned from Mustang Sally to Kanaloa, a transition that is taking much longer than anticipated. Sailing has been limited to a couple of passages to Langkawi and back, day hopping between the numerous islands en route, and three week-long forays into the fantasy seascapes and tide-wracked green waters of Phangna Bay with family and friends, where the greatest delight apart from the company, was the fresh prawns brought daily alongside by local fishermen. In between there have been the numerous business trips to NZ and the 6 week family sojourn in September – October. Kanaloa was hauled out as soon as we returned from NZ and the mast removed in preparation for re-rigging. Leaking chain plates were removed and corrosion and water damaged woodwork found behind the fine veneer. The task list grows, but the chain plates have been rebuilt and reinstalled and everything can start going back together again. Hopefully we will return to our cruising routine before long – we have been in Thai waters and largely marina bound for over a year now and are itching to cast the lines.
Wishing you all the very best for 2017.
Warren Trish and Morg