Hobart-Port Davies March 2015

Wed 18 Mar 2015 2215 EADT; Bramble Cove Posn 43.19S 148.59E

Finally made it around the bottom of Tasmania after strong westerlies for 3 weeks. Escaped Hobart last Thursday evening and made our way down “the Channel” over the next couple of days to Southport where we waited for the forecast easterly change. It lasted a whole 24 hours – we left 0130 hrs yesterday morning and enjoyed a good breeze until west of South Cape, but as soon as we put in a second reef the wind dropped out and we motor sailed the last 6 hours through the desolate Mattsuyker group of Islands,around South West Cape and up the west coast to Port Davey where we are now holed up while another series of fronts cross us bringing strong NE’ly to westerly winds. Its quiet now but there is a gale warning out for the morning.

Port Davies

Climbing hills in Port Davis

Its a beautiful remote and wild place with no road access – like the southern fiords of New Zealand, but while we were the first yacht to enter Bramble Cove we had been joined by 5 other yachts, a trimaran and 3 big fishing boats by nightfall. The fishing boats rafted up in the middle of the bay and proceeded to party hard long into the night, bright lights glaring, though fortunately the loud rock music was shredded by the strong northerly gusting over the mountain topsand we were too tired after a long day to care too much. Today we have been boat bound by wind and rain with low scudding cloud – Morgan occupied himself after school work building a robot and watching movies snuggled in bed with his Mum. Its hardly tropical with water temperatures of 12 degrees and air temperature not that much higher, but Trish can be comforted by the fact we reached our southernmost point (43 deg 42 mins South) yesterday and from hereon the weather can only improve and get warmer! There are only 3 of us left in the anchorage – we were joined at happy hour by one of our neighbours, Jim and Isabelle off the Canadian yacht ‘Sousie of Victoria’ whom we first met in Southport. The desertion by the rest of the fleet leaves you wondering what the locals know that we don’t know. Never mind, we have plenty of chain out!When we arrived in Southport last Friday the owner of a neighbouring yacht dinghied across to warn us that he had lost his chain and anchor in the vicinity of where we had dropped anchor and hadn’t been able to retrieve it. It blew 20-30 knots all the next day and we all remained boat bound but Sunday morning he came across and introduced himself as Tony. When queried about the flag he flew at his cross trees he said he was a New Zealander although the boat was Australian and he had been living on it for 24 years. And where in New Zealand do you come from …. Whakatane. Me too – what’s your name? Larsen, Harold Larsen but otherwise known as Tony. Well knock me down with a feather – we went to school and rowing together, I bought my bike off his older brother, and his father Max bought the Silver Surf Store off Mum and Dad! We traveled on the same school bus from Ohope and even doubled each other on the bike over “the hill” to rowing, but last saw each other 54 years ago. Needless to say Morgan and I gave him a hand to find and successfully retrieve his anchor and chain by using our dinghy anchor as a grapple. It was hard work and Tony would never have managed alone (he retired at 55 from the NSW Transport department after a triple bypass). It was very satisfying and Tony was very grateful. He joined us for dinner bringing little gifts for Morgan and a bottle of bubbly for Trish. Spends his time cruising up and down the Australian coast and has been the last 12 months in Tasmania. Says he would never forsake the life style for a shore bound life.

Hopefully we will be away from here on Friday bound for Esperance in Western Australia – 1320 miles which should take us about 8 days. Pressure is now on to get to Perth in time to fly back to NZ on the 12th Aril.

Thur 19 Mar 2015 2215 hrs EADT: Kings Point – Bathurst Harbour Posn 43.229 S, 146.08 E

The sharp ones of you noticed yesterday’s longitude was 3 degrees out – should have been 145.59E. Transcription error not requiring any navigation revision!

Jetty up the Bathurst Channel

What a miserable day – the wind blew 25 -35 knots gusting over 40kn. But Morgan still had to do his schoolwork – not every kid gets to do his schoolwork in a cockpit surrounded by clears, the view rapidly changing as we veered on the anchor, and occasionally consternated as the savage gusts heeled us to one side or the other. By 4.00 p.m. we had had enough with only one other boat left in anchorage tucked up in bay ahead of us. Even though we were holding well we upped anchor and motored the 8 miles up Bathurst Channel to Kings Point. The channel meanders through the rugged country, narrowing to 200 m wide in parts but deep in its centre. The peaks around us rise to 2500′ writhed in mist and blotted by rain squalls. There are a number of anchorages off the channel but the most attractive (Wombat Cove) was already occupied by 2 yachts swinging on anchors and really required a stern line to shore. Also a bit shallow for us. We found 2 more yachts at Kings Point with flat water, excellent holding and wind gusting only 25 knots. The area would be beautiful in fine weather, but with another gale warning for tomorrow we won’t be getting to enjoy it! Still its snug below with the oil lamps going while the Dish roasts an eye of fillet and bakes a cherry caflouti for dessert. Only hope the gas lasts!

Fri 20 Mar 2015 1900 hrs EADT; Kings Point

Have moved since last night, and what a wild and woolly night it be – would not like to have been at Bramble Cove. Getting cabin fever – we haven’t been off the boat since Monday – Morgan needs to run off lots of energy! Wind finally moderating this afternoon. Preparing boat for departure although watching weather closely – there is a little low developing in the Bight that is intensifying as it moves towards Tasmania. Its followed by a big fat high that looks ideal for departing Tuesday/Wednesday although Trish is keen to get away as soon as possible – she has had enough of the weather and can’t get north fast enough! Mutiny on hand. We might see if we can get to Portland in this weekends’ window. Pity, PortDavey/Bathurst Harbour would be beautiful in fine weather – the chameleon changes of the mountains are meant to be magical in the setting sun, the sun we have seen very little of this summer!

Sat 21 March 2105 2100 hrs EADT; Schooner Cove – Port Davey 43.21 S 146.00 E

Everything stowed, already to depart tonight bound for Esperance, ETA Monday 30 March. Weather finally turned on today – climbed Mt Beattie (276 m) this afternoon for panoramic views of Bathurst Harbour and down the channel out to sea. Morgan made it to within couple of hundred metres from the top when he and Trish decided the button grass and mire were enough and stopped for their lunch. Apart from that Morgan was a little trooper walking up and down over 3 hours. Pity we have to go, good weather through to Monday even if contrary wind before a frontal system Monday afternoon will give us some strong adverse winds before we get on the leading edge of a big high to take us up into the bight.