Port Lincoln to Fremantle

Posn 35 05 S 135 38 E Tues 31st March 2050 hrs (GMT +10)

Left Port Lincoln 1415 hrs this afternoon bound for Albany/Fremantle. ETA Fremantle Wed 8th April if all goes well. Winds look good after tomorrow. Expect weak front late tomorrow and then SE’lies. Weather in Port Lincoln has been balmy over the last couple of days – looking forward to a much warmer passage than our last. Had new neighbours last night – and Oyster 45 “Sintiga” from Western Australia heading in the opposite direction. They enjoyed an uneventful 7 day passage from Albany with a lot of motor sailing. Morgan was of great assistance to them this morning helping to wash down their boat. Currently motor sailing with wind dead aft. Passed around Cape Catastrophe in a calm sea, a marked contrast to the maelstrom that drowned 8 of Matthew Flinder’s crew back in 1802 when their whaleboat capsized in the narrow passage between the cape and surrounding islands now named after the dead crew – Thistle, Hopkins, Grindal, Lewis, Williams, Taylor, Little and Smith. We have paid our respects and have now turned left towards Albany 860 miles away.

Posn 34 49 S 132 11 E Wed 1st April 2000 hrs (GMT +10)

After a quiet night the expected cold front arrived on cue at 1200 hrs to give us a blustery 20-25 kn southerly gusting 25-30 kn but able to run off on broad reach to give a reasonably comfortable ride. Wind expected to back SE and moderate overnight as we ride the top of the high. Nothing much to report otherwise – wet cockpit not conducive to socialising so its either on watch or in bunk! Morgan is gaining his sea legs more rapidly and even poked his head out into the cockpit briefly before rapidly deciding his bunk was a better bet. Only 693 miles to Albany.

Posn 35 00 S 128 13 E Thur 2 April 2200 hrs (GMT +10)

Having a great run under single reefed main and poled out full genoa as wind very slowly backs NE. Still blowing 15-20 knots, but behind us. What a change to be running down the parallels on the right side of the highs with a full moon to boot, even though its wane light is dispersed through the continuous cloud. Our only complaint is the lack of sun all day but shouldn’t niggle – we have a benign wind instead. Yesterday’s sea has moderated and is less confused as we sail over a long lazy swell from the southwest. Morgan is well and truly finding his sea legs now that the boat is heeling and being thrown around less. He has been up and about much of the day, even venturing into the cockpit for a couple of hours. Only 499 miles to Albany.

Posn 35 30 S 125 20 E Fri 3 April 2230 hrs (GMT +10)

Wind dropped below 10 kn dead astern in sloppy seas in the early hours this morning – couldn’t stand the slatting sails as the air spilled from them by the boats motion so furled head sail, sheeted in main and motor sailed for the next 11 hours. Rewarded with clearing skies and pleasant sailing on flattening seas in the afternoon – cool but sunny for the first time since clearing Cape Catastrophe. Currently broad reaching at 6 kn in 10 kn NE’ly but skies have clouded over once again. Even so the full moon behind the clouds is giving us a remarkably bright night. Weather has been far more conducive to on board activities – showers, reading and entertaining Morgan – we even had an evening meal together sitting down at the saloon table. Entertaining Morgan on such days is a challenge. Its difficult for a small active boy in such a confined space, but given the benign conditions no movies today. Mainly reading and words. Had to reattach one of the mainsail batten holders to the car on the mast this evening – a very willing worker brought tools and warm clothing to cockpit, requested or otherwise, and turned off the whistling kettle while Trish and I were occupied on deck. Its wonderful to see his initiative. We might have to stop in Albany to give him a run around on land as a reward – its become part of the ritual to check out the playgrounds in every port we visit! We’ll see how we are going tomorrow. Only 355 miles to Albany ETA early hours Monday morning if we decide to stop. Strong SE – E’lies forecast Sunday-Monday around Cape Leeuwin – do we take advantage of them or have some respite? While I write the skies have partially cleared with a great golden orb directly overhead – better go on deck and enjoy – its my watch.

Posn 35 26 S 121 45 E Sat 4 April 2200 hrs (GMT +8)

Fast reaching for Albany 185 miles away. Still undecided on whether to stop or carry on. Forecast for Tues/Wed doesn’t look good for the final leg north from Cape Leeuwin to Fremantle – strong NE’lies on the nose. We understand there is a new marina at Augusta which could be an option to wait for a favourable change but will need to get some information – not on my charts. But back to today – we motored for 10 hours across a glassy sea before a weak front crossed us giving us fresh southerly forecast to back SE later tonight. Sunset this evening was even more spectacular than dawn today – a fiery red on the bow as the full moon rose on our stern, followed a couple of hours later by the eclipse – an auspicious day for the Jewish Passover and Easter. Dawn was more subdued – the moon sank half an hour before the sun rose, leaving a delicate pale grey blue rising through deep indigo and violet to a pinkish orange blush on the western horizon while beads of molten gold etched the rim of the cloud bank low on the eastern horizon before the dazzling orb of the sun burst above to herald the new day. Perhaps its for such moments that we sail.

Posn 35 13 S 118 29 E Sun 5 April 230 hrs (GMT +8)

Morgan woke early today – well, not really early as we set the clocks back 2 hours to WST yesterday – and found Easter eggs hidden in nooks and crannies around his bunk. Amazing where the Easter bunny can find you these days, especially if you keep your masthead navigation light on! Of course that led to a search of the saloon and kept him occupied for a couple of hours while Trish caught up with some sleep after coming off watch at dawn. It has been an unpleasant day on board today in contrast to the rather pleasant previous couple of days – the wind shifted SE and increased to 20 knots giving us a very bumpy ride over a very confused sea – SE’ly waves on left over S’ly waves on a 2-3 m SW’ly swell. Never get such confused seas trade wind sailing! Morgan and Trish spent the afternoon cocooned in the starboard saloon berth watching funny videos – well I presume they were funny because of lots of laughs and giggles. I’m above such things, preferring to play navigating, looking for optimal routes using latest weather files and navigation and routing software! Its currently telling me we could be in Fremantle in 2 days 3 hours time with 350 miles to go. Can see the faint loom of Albany under the clouds some 30 miles off on the starboard bow, but the dice has been cast and we have decided to continue on direct for Cape Leeuwin and Fremantle. There is no short term improvement in the weather forecast and the sooner we get around the corner the better even if it means a bash up the coast on the last day.

Fremantle Thursday 9 April 0935 hrs (GMT +8)

Docked Fremantle Sailing Club 0425 hrs yesterday after miserable last 100 miles up the coast. We rounded the dreaded Cape Leeuwin 2100 hrs with a pleasant 15 kn breeze and slight seas on our beam as we altered course northwards, sharing the moment with north and south bound ships, Leeuwin light flashing on our quarter. Cape Leeuwin itself is a most unimposing headland stuck out on a flat platform extending southwards from higher land with rocks and islets and strong currents extending a further 10 miles offshore – a place to give a wide berth. The wind backed and strengthened as we beam reached up the dark coast broken only by the lights of Margaret River. We passed a southbound yacht in the early hours and exchanged pleasantries by VHF radio, strangers in the night yet sharing a common bond, he heading east to Port Lincoln over the same route we had just sailed. He faced the prospect of strong easterlies as he rounded Leeuwin, as we faced strong head winds further north. Cape Naturaliste abeam at 0650 hrs Tuesday morning with the wind now blowing 25 – 30 knots straight out of Fremantle. We tacked and fetched 20 miles or so across Geographe Bay, losing a bit of ground in the process, but into the lee of the land, and motor sailed the rest of the way up the coast a mile or two offshore in 20-25 kns and non stop rain, at times torrential with visibility down to a couple of hundred metres – comforting to have the radar and chart plotter to navigate by! Our next challenge was Challenger Pass through the offshore reefs protecting Fremantle – a bit of a challenge because we had lost our wheel steering the day before and were relying on the autohelm entirely. We abandoned the first attempt as we approached too fast under a double reefed main to hold course and the set taking us south – the pass is only 200 metres wide but lit by a port and a starboard light, and beset by strong currents – more than one yacht has ended up hitting Challenger Rock on the south side of the pass. Our second attempt with main down and under power alone was more controlled and we successfully negotiated our way through the mile of reefs before laying course for Fremantle, the wind on the nose its strength unabated. We used the emergency tiller to enter the harbour and we were two tired but relieved people (Morgan slept through it all)to finally dock in the quiet of the marina, the boat still after 7 1/2 days. A celebratory tot of rum before bed and were just turning out the lights when the first of the welcoming committee arrived and quarter to five. Rory, an old crew member, didn’t stay long as he headed off to work. We crashed only to be woken again by the commodore of the club stopping by at 8.30 to welcome us. Its great feeling to return to Mustang Sally’s home port after almost 16 years and most of the day was lost remaking old acquaintances bumped into between the dock and the club, including WA’s most famous sailor who has just returned to Perth after completing his 7th circum-navigation at the age of 75!!! Have a lot to sort out over the next couple of days before we return to NZ for 4 weeks, so we will sign off until the adventure recommences mid May when we set sail for Indonesia.